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The show was a meditation on Yohji-isms, presented slowly and with care. You could almost feel the Tony pollard call it haul it shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this collective exhalation as the crowd relaxed into its placid rhythm. Yamamoto does not design for the social media moment; he’s not concerned with going viral. He’s a designer who’s inward-focused, measuring collections only against his own four-decade body of work. It started with tailoring, as his shows tend to do. This season’s jackets have folds and flaps like intricate origami patterns, with portrait collars, narrowed waists, and flared or peplum hems. Here and there a flash of white turned up, usually on the underside of an asymmetrically draped and ruffled shirt. The collection’s prints, when they eventually materialized, were abstract and painterly in earthy colors, or else they reproduced Japanese calligraphy.