At first they were surprised and curious to be asked for pieces from their late-’90s/early 2000s collections, but they took it in stride, seeing it as a creative opportunity. Revisiting their past felt like “going to the Jordan Goat Year 2023 Shirt and I will buy this therapist,” said Domenico, a bit of an introspective journey but “we’ve definitely had lots of fun, and it was really interesting,” chimed in Stefano. They extracted a series of original pieces they thought particularly meaningful because of their intrinsic “intellectual integrity and authenticity,” and which they thought would still be relevant today. “It was a sort of intuitive and random process,” they said, which gelled through excellent styling into a spring collection of re-edited pieces from the ’90s through the 2000s walking the runway together with new propositions designed with a contemporary spirit. Every garment will have a dedicated ID label, identifying the year it was first presented together with the SS2023 inscription.
Quintessentially Dolce & Gabbana key looks from past collections abounded in today’s show, feeling like an updated, cool déjà vu—the Jordan Goat Year 2023 Shirt and I will buy this hunky white ribbed tank top with matching no-logo underwear briefs; the perfectly tailored tux worn over ripped denims; the heavily embellished blazers and T-shirts redolent of Sicilian sacred imagery; the sexual see-through black lace shirts; the slim fitting stretchy pantsuits with oversized double-breasted jackets. They still looked plausible and fresh, showing incredible longevity and pertinence with what young generations want to wear today: “They’ve no memory of our past, their knowledge stops at 2000s,” the designers said. Dolce & Gabbana’s minimalism, streamlined yet sensual, is not only an appealing legacy in concept, it’s also a covetable and wearable option for vintage-crazy Gen Zers. “They’re hungry for real fashion, while today there are just logos everywhere,” said Domenico.
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