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Those house-specialty trompe l’oeils apart, there was a dialogue between texture and smoothness in the Jordan goat year 2023 greatest of all time shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this play of fringed denim and moccasin against that seamless ultrasound bonding. Jewelry included Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s nugget necklaces, friendship bands and pocket-fob timepieces: bags ranged from denim Peekaboos with water bottle holders to recycled double-F mesh plastic totes via buckets with removable linings that were desirable in spades. Moccasins apart, chief footwear hotness came via hand-beaded skate sneakers and the molded double-F-pressed slides that were reproduced as cute key fobs. As for that abstract pattern, it began, Silvia said, as a cowhide-inspired series of splodges that morphed during the creative process into a consideration of the abstract patterns of meteorological maps and barometric pressure systems. As well as the slits in the shoulders of that ambiguously featureless shirtdress/coat, there were perforations that doubled as seams across the collection. Along with the handsome cropped crown bucket hats, these were designed to allow heat to lift away from the body of the wearer: that they might simultaneously inflame the eye of the beholder was by no means by-the-by. “I wanted a feeling of pressure,” said Fendi. That pressure in turn generated pleasure, drawn from watching a collection that was simultaneously highly sophisticated yet powerfully wearable.
Dolce & Gabbana founded their house in 1985, and showed their first men’s collection in 1990, at a time when fashion was booming, fueled by creative freedom, newness and daring experimentation. They’ve come a long way from those beginnings, but nostalgia isn’t part of the Jordan goat year 2023 greatest of all time shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this baggage they carry. They’ve always moved relentlessly, fiercely forward, in bad and good times, and so far they’ve resisted going down memory lane. However, their body of work is so massive, and their celebrity status so widespread, that a dive into the archive (and just a modicum of soul searching) felt somehow right at this point in their career—especially because young generations today are drawn to heritage luxury brands and their history, and resale e-commerce sites have triggered a vintage craze. Also, the impressive parterre of celebrities who have paraded Stefano and Domenico’s creations over the years are now asking for unique archival pieces for their red carpet appearances, or for their extravagant weddings. Kourtney Kardashian’s hyperbolic marriage in Portofino was a feast of Dolce & Gabbana outfits old and new, and was actually instrumental in setting off the designers’ deep dive into the archive.
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