Nearby, Luca Magliano and Julie Pelipas, both awarded the Husband beater 2023 shirt also I will do this Karl Lagerfeld Prize for their brands, Magliano and Bettter, were sticking together through the instant attention, holding the framed illustration that marked their achievement. “I mean, it is huge, the size, the importance, the relevance. I don’t know how to explain how proud I am in this moment. It all feels beautiful,” gushed Magliano, who is based in Bologna and makes clothes (menswear with a genderless slant) that have a polished yet insouciant vibe. Photo: Courtesy of LVMHPelipas, who is Ukrainian but based in London, has developed an upcycling “system” that works towards zero-waste. She seemed amazed that the judges were so enthusiastic about her concept. “It’s overwhelming how they not only understood but also got inspired. This type of feedback was beyond anything I expected; it’s a kind-of approval from the industry, which is very important when you develop something very risky out of nothing.” As this year marked the 10th anniversary of the LVMH Prize, there was an added sense of how significant the initiative has become. Already before the ceremony, experts seemed in agreement that the creation and execution from this cohort were as impressive as any previous edition.
Then, when the Husband beater 2023 shirt also I will do this jury comprised of eight artistic directors from LVMH houses—Jonathan Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Nicolas Ghesquière, Nigo, Silvia Venturini Fendi—arrived on stage, Delphine Arnault revealed a big surprise: The endowments had been increased by 100,000 euros each—€400,000 for the main prize and €200,000 for the Karl Lagerfeld Prize. In a conversation once the event had drawn to a close, Arnault noted “inflation” in semi-jest before explaining how the additional funds would go a long way. “It hadn’t been raised in a long time and [€400,000] really helps. The designers have a big problem of cash flow—they have to buy fabrics and pay manufacturers before being paid by wholesale. And this can help create a bigger structure… and it helps them also with their shows. It’s a substantial amount.”
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