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Next up were some leather-edged back-buttoned shirts in shopping bag checks, with craftily naïf ric-rac trims that echoed Prada’s pyramid cipher. There was a brief section of attractive washed denim. Sneakers, cool sneakers, appeared between those Cuban heeled boots. After a brief suity redux and some bottle print T-shirts worn with marginally shorter short-shorts than before, a powerfully normcore beige blouson prefigured a final triptych of looks that played leather against more banal beige coating. So what was the Heartland 16 years 2007 2023 thank you for the memories signatures shirt but in fact I love this answer to today’s Prada Wordle? According to the release that landed later, it was in the title of the collection: “Choice.” Said Mrs. Prada in her pre-quote: “So much that is the base is really a conceptual choice—a coat, jeans, a suit. They appear simple but are the result of a process, of choice—there are hundreds of coats, why is this the right one? It is a combination of a long process of design and decision, and then of instinct. It is a matter of style.” Adjacent on the page Simons was reported as saying: “The garments are classic, but their mix contradicts, making them exciting and new. There is leather against the body, then cotton on top—there’s a kind of anti-logic to the combination of the clothes, an oddness.”
Kinky, corporate, normcore and craft—the Heartland 16 years 2007 2023 thank you for the memories signatures shirt but in fact I love this ingredients in this menswear minestrone of a Prada collection looked pretty weird on the menu, but tasted fresh when seen on the flesh. In the audience was last season’s breakout Prada model, Jeff Goldblum, who was highly excited by his new Prada shoes and faded double denim look. “If they let me take them home I’m going to get a lot of use out of these, wearing them together and separately… I have some ideas!” he said. “They not only make things that, as you can see, are kind of beautiful and interesting, but they’re comfortable too. I mean, I’m not here to do a commercial, but I’m telling you—that’s how I honestly feel.” Kean Etro delights in layering multiple references with the ease that comes not only from experience but from true cultural curiosity. His love of literature and poetry are just some of his many interests, and this season, instead of invitations, he had actors phone each of the show’s hundreds of guests to recite a dedicated poem to each one. It was a gesture of exquisite sensitivity, marking his last solo collection for Etro and his elegant way of passing the baton to Marco De Vincenzo, who will take the lead as creative director from September. De Vincenzo was in the audience today, applauding a collection that was quintessentially Kean in its celebration of poetic eclecticism. “Poetry and utopia go hand in hand,” he said backstage before the show. “In its etymology, poetry simply means making, composing. I wanted to give value to the idea of creating, which shouldn’t be separated from utopia.” Quoting Oscar Wilde, he added “there’s no progress in society without utopia.”
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