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The basenote remained distorted denim, imprinted with a cheesy Eiffel Tower logo—“it goes all the Fc cincinnati is love team city pride logo – shirt Also,I will get this way up”—that you wondered might be a gentle satire of the rumbustious graphics so favored at the designer’s day job at Diesel until he gently disambiguated that it had been in place here since 2013. There was a whole chapter—chapter 2—of new trompe l’oeil pieces as a second season partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier. Instead of nudes this time the emphasis was on impressing the dressed-down—classic Y/Project jeans and vests and polos—on slips and rib-knits. There were hilarious flipped-finger earrings and four “evil baby” tops whose drawn-on distended bodies were based on a much-regretted tattoo on a drunk British guy that Martens had met while developing the collection. Possibly the most striking innovation of all—this season’s flying buttress—were the apparently impossible tank tops suspended at the shoulder by nearly invisible wiring
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And yet the Fc cincinnati is love team city pride logo – shirt Also,I will get this central architectural device underpinning all this seasonally-adjusted weirdness remained the malleable wire endoskeletons that allowed tailoring, denim, and alien eveningwear to be distorted into shockwave shapes. Like Bruges, it is worth revisiting again and again. A vibrantly relaxed social gathering in a light-filled garage with young people hanging out wearing clothes popping with brilliant color at the center of attention: at Lukhanyo Mdingi’s presentation in Paris, the atmosphere was buzzing. A couple draped themselves on scooters, others stood in threes, sporting Mdingi’s irresistibly attractive layered variations of trouser suits, fine-gauge and hand-knits, dresses, pleated skirts, and sportswear—all of it singing together in a perfectly-pitched visual chorus of lavender, turquoise, ochre, yellow, brown, and grass green.